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    Index » F-Zero SNES » F-Zero SNES Tool-Assisted-Speedruns
FunStyle
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F-Zero SNES Tool-Assisted-Speedruns
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I make a new topic here,because i think i will do more in future.

So far i have a MC1 3lap and lap TAS:

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Yazzo
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it's faster to tap the gas like that?

FunStyle
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OK i might explain,because so much people asked me yet.

It's nearly the same system like the MT in GX.

A boost goes down from the speed of 562 to 486.

The idea of the MT is to make the part of 530 to 486 faster,that the part from 562-530 can be used more often during one boost.

And this works not with releasing gas,it works with puting X in the frames where you have a speed of 530-486.Then I drive 1 frame with a speed of 478 and the next one with 562 again.

The last part of a boost from 562-478 is driven without it to hold the boost long.So the distance of a boost is shorter,but it's faster like hell.

One MT boost saves 0"06 compared to a normal boost.

But i tried on console,and it's insanly hard to do Wink

 

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FunStyle
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Here is the Big Blue TAS

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Captain_Failcon
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EDIT: New DW2 Flap 20'94:

watch?v=sC2vsROs4Fc

Used new strats, such as rail-assisted boost tapping. The result looks awesome.

 

edward406
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All right, so I finally got to making my first TAS the other day for F-Zero SNES. Thanks to the encouragement and help from Nekozid and TBK, here is my first video.



The rerecord count wasn't much, only 1,502. This run is not optimized and there is room for improvement, this was more of an experiment if anything to try out TASing and to see if I could learn anything about the level.

In this run, I tried to incorporate brake tapping as much as possible too. Most notable in lap 5, about 1/4 of the way through the guard rail, I tried doing brake tapping inside the guard rail (that's what all that extra noise is for those wondering). I assumed this would naturally be faster, but after checking the TAS, I have found that brake tapping in the guard rails is actually slower (not sure why).

Going through corners one and two, there are a couple subtle apexes on each curve. I found a good way to go through these curves is to alternate use of the R button rather than holding it the entire time.

Coming out of the guard rail between curve one and two and doing a brake tap was faster than being in the guard rail.

I found being more towards the middle of the refiller when coming in for turn three allowed for hugging the third corner more tightly as well as getting faster times.

I tried the technique where the FS comes into the side of the second boost plate. From my small amount of experimenting with it, I was unable to find any difference time wise.

Edit: Removed parts related to how steering works. I'd like to have better knowledge of how the game works before posting further about that topic.

"It's the F-Zero spirit!" -Yazzo
FunStyle
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FunStyle
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This run is done with savestates and slowdowns.

Rerecord Count: 4683

 

After having a long conversation with EdwardFourZERO6 i decided to do a new Tool-Assisted Speedrun for this Track`s Lap. And i could save another 0"01 for the Timer.

 

Improvement 1: Lap Entrance

Entering the Lap is now saving up to 2 pixels on the distance i need for the lap. The reason for that is that there is a certain pixel, where the game decides if you entered the lap or not. Being one pixel before that line on the frame that does not count for the Fastlap, makes you being far ahead of the finish line at the next frame. This is the maximum you can get out of the game and compared to my old Speedrun, this saves up to 2 pixels.

 

Tactic 1: Timer

The Timer when entering the lap. The Timer in F-Zero SNES works like this:

0"01-0"03-0"04-0"06....

or

0"02-0"03-0"05-0"06....

Making the timer starting with an advancing of 0"01 when entering the lap, saves 0"01 for the timer when finishing the lap.

 

 

Improvement 2: Zipper-Technique

Taking the 2nd Zipper from the right side. The reason for this is, to have the boost of the 1st zipper active for longer, which means the distance you got the zipperboost activated is a bit longer. I already did this on my previous speedrun, but this saves a bit of time as well.

 

Improvement 3: 3rd Turn

Taking the 3rd turn. On my previous speedrun i recognized, that i actually could take the turn much tighter and tried a lot of things. For example i wanted to be a bit more to the left before taking the turn, which obviously made the lap 1-2 frames slower. Another thing i tried out, was to go through the barrier, which also makes the lap slower, no matter how much frames i was in the barrier. This is mainly because the speed drops insanly fast when being in the barrier. What i found out is the following:

EdwardFourZERO6 explained that the car has a "turn-value", which means, everytime you press d-pad left or right, there is added "turning-value". At a certain value, the car starts to turn. It is very easy to find out. For the slightest turn you can do with the Fire Stingray on maxspeed you need to press left or right for 3 frames. Then it starts to turn. Let`s say you try that after a turn to the left. Your car is going straight forward, but to do the slightest turn to the right it actually takes up to 5-6 frames now, making the car turning. So there is actually turning value saved to the car. That means you can prepare the car turning, without turning. Thats what i did shortly before entering the refiller. I pressed right on the D-Pad at two non-consecutive frames, before actually starting to turn. This makes the car doing a slightly tighter turn, which saves around 2-4 pixels in drivingdistance.

 

Another improvement on the 3rd turn is to take the turn by actually turning 2 times. Shortly before doing the actual turn, i make the car driving the smallest amount possible to the right. This is good since the driving line overall is a bit shorter and i also can take the turn a bit tighter as well. This also might have saved around 2 pixels.

 

Improvement 4: BreakTaps

A Major improvement coming with this speedrun which actually saves the last needed frames is to use 3 Break-Taps after the 3rd turn, instead of 2.

When the boost of zipper brings me down to 535kmh i activate the Boost and do a Break tap 2 frames later at the speed of 531 and droing it down to 486 (which is actually much faster than droping it down to 491, because at 486 the time for the speedometer climbing up to 560 is one frame shorter.) Setting it like this my speedometer is at 560 at the frame before i enter the barrier, which came out to be the best way to enter it.

 

Improvement 5: 4th Turn

The 4th turn, looks a bit weird, since i actually crash the wall. This is actually a break-tap, which makes my speedometer being at 560 at the frame when i leave the barrier, what you want it to be. (I actually found out that crashing the wall sometimes doesn`t let you bump away or droping speed, which means the tightest turns crash walls a bit. This is the only thing i can think of being improved in this lap. But since you need a lot of pixels to save, to make the timer being at 19"80, i also doubt it might be enough). Anyway, i got a very tight turn there.

 

Improvement 6: Last BreakTaps

The last two breaktaps are very important. The one before the last, is not like an usual one, to drop speed from 531 to 486. I start droping the speed at 526. The reason for that is to do the next break a bit later, which is important for saving the last pixels. The last breaktap is placed that i get up to 560 once more, right a few frames before getting the zipperboost. Why? The reason is that if you got more speed on the speedometer, the zipper needs one frame less to be on top of its speed of 960 (or in some cases even get there and not to 958 which is really bad.)Some of the speedometers i recognized:

 

499-585-678-776-881-960-958-957

538-638-734-836-944-960-958-957

482-567-658-755-858-960-958-957

523-610-704-805-911-960-958-957

 

You see, starting with 538 is pretty good, even though there is a better speed, which is not good, even if the speedometer would be better than. For example 551 would be better, but to be with that speed on the zipper, my previous breaktaps needed to be different, and i`d lose much time then.

 

Improvement 7: The Finish

The finish is the pixels i saved summed up, which gives me the best finish. (pixels). I tried to get out that last pixel i needed for hours, and i could get it with the previous improvements. This makes the timer not advancing one more time and saving 0"01. This actually shows that this run is more a 19"82 than a 19"81. I needed 1321 frames, but the time 19"82 is 1321,333 frames. But i can`t get the timer more lucky, since i used that for the entrance already. This run is only improved by a few pixels, which shows this run is very close to 19"83. Saving the next pixels for a 19"80 on the timer is almost impossible. (i actually would say it is impossible).

 

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edward406
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TAS Death Wind I (Lap) 19"80 (1320 Frames)

Some things I tried different to improve the time were rather than going off the very tip of the dash arrow in the very begginning, I go more towards the middle. This allows for further entry into the lap. In turn three, I take the whole turn without letting up. For turn four, I used just one brake tap as I had a hard time trying to get two in efficiently.

Also Funstyle shared his TAS with me. This allowed me to see if I was making improvements or not as I went along and was therefore a useful element in helping me construct this TAS, so thank you.

"It's the F-Zero spirit!" -Yazzo
edward406
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Before getting started I want to mention that I am going to keep all completed TAS files I make available for anyone to download at this link. They aren t the best, but maybe someone can learn something from them or just have fun with them. Anytime I make a new TAS, I will upload the file to this folder on Dropbox. I use Snes9x Rerecord 1.51 for Windows. So you will need to use that version if you want to play the files. I also use Wine to run that program on my comp since I use OSX. Unfortunately I can t create videos with Snes9x 1.51 using Wine, so I use Snes9x 1.53 for OSX to make the movies I upload to YT. So if you have OSX, you can use Snes9x 1.53 to play MOST of those files. I say most files because my Port Town I TAS actually desynced using Snes9x 1.53, not sure why. As a result, I had to borrow a PC in order to make the movie file for that one.

So I completed two more Tool Assisted Speeruns recently. These two were done with the goal of trying to beat the actual lap records for Port Town I and White Land I, but with Golden Fox.

I ll start off with Port Town I, some of what I learned, errors I made, and basic strategies I used.

-Before entering the fast lap, I stop the GF so I could make it easier to get the furtherest entry possible into the lap. This strategy of stopping is not possible for fast laps where the whole S-Jet is needed though.

-When using S-Jets, the GF still drifts. Going around the first few bends after the shortcut, I should have actually used blast tapping to stop the drift some and regain grip.

-The rest of the turns in the run are solid, and I use blast tapping at the end of the them to help the GF regain grip. There is also definitely room for improvement on this run.

The next lap I tried was White Land I. I realized this track might be possible with GF because of the jump plates. No matter which vehicle you use, you can always travel 478 km/h when in the air. This basically means the GF can go Fire Stingray speed through the entire jump plate segment. As a result though, I had to trigger the 2nd S-Jet in a spot different from the FS lap.

On my first attempt of the TAS, I got a 21"82. Thus, to beat a 21"66, I had 12 more frames to go. I went ahead and pushed for it and dropped that time by 13 frames. I will now go into detail on what I did to make this lap.

-First is the lap entry. What is important is that there is decent speed before triggering the S-Jet entering the lap. This ensures no precious pixels are wasted when accelerating up to 562 km/h. The sliding side to side is also intentional to get as far as possible into the lap. Since sliding slows the machine down without affecting its speedometer, sliding left and right can then be used to fine tune which pixel I want to enter the lap on.

-Next, going around the first turn, all the engine throttling you hear is blast tapping. This helps to maintain some grip around that first bend. If no blast tapping is done, the GF will just drift out of the rail. The tapping is not every other frame. There is a combination of slight drifting and regaining grip used to go around the turn.

-When I go around the first iced hairpin, there are even more important frame saving actions taking place. Using the GF s ability to drift, it is possible to take the hairpin in ways much tighter than the the FS can. Next, when the GF comes up to the hairpin s guardrail, I release the accelerator. This allows the GF to increase its rate of turning just slightly. Then, before going through the white dirt exiting the hairpin, I tap the accelerator once. This gets the GF up to a high speed for a small moment. There is a good reason this is done and I will explain why. When traveling through the white dirt, letting go of the accelerator does not help to increase your rate of turning and is the same as holding it. However, on any other track surface, letting go of the accelerator does allow for the GF to increase its rate of turning. So by getting out of the white dirt as quickly as possible and back onto the normal track surface, the GF can more quickly orient itself towards the jump plates. (Basically, you want to be in the dirt as little as possible so you can turn quickly).

-When turning into the jump plate for the shortcut, the GF s ability to drift allows it to come into the plate from a more narrow angle. Upon hitting the jump plate, which is essentially the apex of the turn, I blast turn left as the GF no longer needs to drift.

Landing the shortcut proved to be the most tricky part of this TAS for me. As you may or may not know, there is an invisible checkpoint near where you land the shortcut and you cannot go past it unless you land before it. Since the GF can easily go past the checkpoint, before landing, I push the GF down, spending less time in the air, and then getting it past the checkpoint even sooner.

The last bit I want to mention is the turn after the 2nd iced hairpin. This turn makes great use again of the GF s ability to drift. Towards the end of this turn, a little blast tapping is mixed in to take the turn sharper as it becomes tighter.

"It's the F-Zero spirit!" -Yazzo
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